Continental US customers only, no international shipping offered so don’t ask.
Customers must pay a $50 deposit to reserve one of the spaces for the next month of work. I accept a maximum of 15 machines per month for service. Check my web store to see if any spaces remain for the current month.
Headstock customers Click here to pay a deposit and reserve your space
(Internal component customers don’t need to pay a deposit.)
If I can accept your machine at the current time, I will email you my address and further details.
This contact email is only for inquiries about shipping your headstock or its internal components to me for servicing. I won’t reply to any other questions.
Headstock removal is simple
1. Put Mark V up in drill press mode.
2. Use your allen wrench to loosen the setscrews on the bottom on the way tube tie bar. This is the bar which connects the way tubes is on the left, now up in the air.
3. Use a mallet or piece of wood to gently tap the tie bar up and off the way tubes. Be sure to tap both sides evenly so the tie bar doesn’t get crooked as it goes up, binding it.
4. Lower Mark V down out of drill press mode. If you have a helper, you can have them hold the tubes up slightly as you slide the headstock to the left and free of the way tubes. If you don’t have a helper, you can use your table as a jack to hold the tubes up at a slight angle. You can do this by placing a 2×4 board across your bottom tubes right under your table’s legs. Lock table carriage in position. Crank your table DOWN, so that the legs press against the 2×4, this will lift everything up. Lock table height. Then you can slide your headstock off the left side of your machine, free of the tubes.
5. Reassembly is simply the reverse steps above.
See my YouTube video on how to do this. Click the link below.
Boxing it up (please follow carefully):
Double box the headstock. (DO NOT BUILD A CRATE!!!).
This means using one box which barely fits the headstock, and insert this one into a larger box with the voids between them filled with folded cardboard, bubble wrap, or crumpled newspaper only (DO NOT USE STYROFOAM, BEADBOARD, PEANUTS, ANY TYPE OF INSULATION, HEAVY BLANKETS, ANY WOOD, OR FOOD BOXES). (If you do, I charge $25 extra for shop hazard/cleanup because particles endanger not only your machine but those of other customers in case they get in motors.)
The double box method protects the headstock from being cracked. I have received headstocks broken because it was single boxed in peanuts and the heavy headstock immediately sank thru the peanuts to the bottom of the box. (Absolutely do not build a crate. This adds a lot of weight costing you more, and a heavy item in a solid box can be damaged. This happened to more than one customer who ignored my instructions and sent his in a crate It cost him more in parts and in shipping.) The inner box can be about 18x18x12 and the outer box of 20x20x14 is about perfect, but should be no larger than 20x20x20. Using very large boxes costs you more due to the larger volume, and the extra padding materials add weight unnecessarily.
Good sources for boxes include Uhaul, mini storage companies, Lowes, Home Depot, Fedex Office, UPS, Staples stores, Office Max, etc. But you may already have something suitable such as an old computer box, microwave, etc.
Please don’t use styrofoam, fiberglass, beadboard, heavy blankets, towels, or peanuts at all!!!. Folded cardboard, bubble wrap and crumpled newspaper does a fine job of keeping the headstock from shifting. Bubble wrap is the best!
NEVER USE STYROFOAM, PEANUTS, FIBERGLASS INSULATION, HEAVY BLANKETS, TOWELS, OR BEADBOARD!!!
Here is an 8 minute video demonstrating this packing method
Click link below to see the YouTube video
Remove and keep quill handle so it won’t get bent. Remove any accessories such as drill chucks, lathe centers, sawblades.
Please don’t use peanuts or foam at all. This is where they all end up.
Include your complete contact info taped directly to the headstock and on the outer box (name, shipping address you want it returned to, your best phone #, your preferred email address). Email me to receive my shipping address. My email address is: firstname.lastname@example.org
Please write LEGIBLY or type up the info.
Important: Email me from the account you will look at for replies: whether that be your personal account, or work account. Give me the address you want it returned to.
Ship headstock GROUND SERVICE (saves a lot of money) to me via your choice of carriers. Insure to $300 or so in case of damage in transit. Please waive the need for a signature.
Use UPS or Fedex both have been quite reliable, as is Parcel Post mail service.
Email me telling me date it shipped, with what carrier, and tracking number.
In the email give me your shipping address, phone number, email account, history of the machine, what symptoms it was having and what operations you were doing at the time, what service history it has had etc. My email address is email@example.com .
After I have inspected it, I will send you an email detailing the condition, what it needs, and how to pay for the repair. Payment by check, credit card or paypal is fine. No need for any deposit prior to the repair. Please, no long vacation holds, split payments or slow payments.
PLEASE INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION IN AN EMAIL TO ME
ADDRESS YOU WANT ME TO SHIP BACK TO.
YOUR BEST PHONE NUMBER
YOUR PREFERRED EMAIL ADDRESS
WHAT SYMPTOMS THE MACHINE WAS HAVING AND WHAT YOU WERE DOING AT THE TIME
HAS THE MACHINE EVER BEEN SERVICED
HOW REGULARLY WAS IT OILED
HISTORY OF THE MACHINE (when bought, how long in storage, etc)
$50 extra charge if your machine is shipped with peanuts, foam, fiberglass, styrofoam, beadboard, etc.
It is fine to leave on the quill lock hardware, the depth stop hardware and the drive hubs. See photos below
Ok to leave this on
Ok to leave this on
Ok to leave these on
But remove the quill handle, sawblades, drillchucks, etc. and keep them at home. See photos below.
Remove for shipping, it will get bent.
Remove sawblades for shipping
Remove drillchucks etc for shipping.